I first visited Christchurch as a backpacker in the spring of '05. I stayed at the backpackers accommodation just south of the city to be within a short walking distance to the bus stop as I had quite a load to carry on my back and across my chest. After a peacful night in an empty dorm, what a pleasant surprise to wake up next morning to see snow falling outside the window. I prepared for the day, had breakfast and headed off rather cautiously along the snow laden footpath. It did not take long to find myself horizontal on my back after slipping on ice and to be greeted by a senior woman looking down at me asking "Am I OK?". I replied jokingly but not rudely "I'm OK madam, just enjoying the view".
Well, the view now is broken in parts. Strong earthquakes on this scale have a reputation for destruction and loss of ives. Most of the city core is has been classified as a no go area called the Red Zone. Having said that, I can happily conclude that the Christchurch spirit is not broken. The local communities, Government, business community and insurance entities are no doubt working through each project and task to rebuild Christchurch infrastructure, in particular the city domain. There have been those that have left and not returned but there will be many who return and new arrivals assisting with the reconstruction process.
I went looking for a particular coffee shop I remember from last time only to find it as another casualty of the seismic event. The little grassy park next to it and the English oak tree were still there so I pulled out my emergency backup thermos of tea and half a fruit bun to enjoy while nearby a lone worker cuts timber on his circular saw to rebuild a local car park ticketing booth. In this case the structure is timber and looks quite arty.
At the fringe of this Red Zone I came across a recently completed building - Enterprise Precinct and Innovation Campus (EPIC). This has been established as part of the business recovery and provides a new home for startup IT innovators. The innovators group had lost its 'home' after the earthquake.
What impressed me as I walked through the Campus was the visually appealing design and structure - all timber and I suspect quake proof as the building rests on a pier structure. Great open space inside with common kitchen and meeting areas along the hallway which is cavernous. Great to see bike only parking at the front and rear of the building.
Here is a shocking introduction for tourists camping NZ style. Three American tourists and one German tourist travelling in two camper vans in the Nelson area were confronted by a severe storm.
They decided to shelter withe the vans under a bridge on a dry river bed and strapped the vans together for support. Oh dear, this does not bode for a good ending. The next morning around 9:30 am one of the travellers was woken up by water entering the van. They could not move the vans as they had tied them together the night before.
The group has quickly gathered as many personal belongings only to have them taken away by the strong current with one of the tourists swimming after them, only to put himself in more danger. They all survived with major embarrassment and it was reported that the two very expensive camper vans were later sighted, floating happily down the river.
And that's it for this 1,683km journey - now cycling my way to the airport and back to Australia to rest in preparation for the Europe spring to autumn ride. Thank you for reading and maybe some of you cyclists and would-be cyclists are at least passed the curious stage if not inspired. Just be mindful of the traffic and no freedom camping policy here. The Kiwis, both imported and indigenous have been most welcoming and generous with their hospitality and advice. Their ice cream is to die for!
If you would like to comment or ask questions about the trip or my cycle touring experiences and gear you're more than welcome to contact me at jcp.tas@gmail.com.






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